The biggest river of the Adriatic gathering ground, although greatly curbed and fettered, is still with is't beauty and landscape variety unique. Within it's delta, the river conditioned totally unique way of human living which today slowly disapeares but it is very much present in the memories of older inhabtants, their stories and in conscience of the young people who don't want to let this to be forgotten.

     The valley of Neretva's lower flow has biggest and most valuable rests of the Mediterranean wetlands on east Adriatic coast and this is one of the rare areas in the whole Europe. Lately, this wetland areas were very much degraded and the rest of this areas are like fractured separated islandes with intensive worked out and inhabited surrounding. Water regulations, upper part acumulation building and drainage and converting of the wetland into agriculture land have changed look of this area irreversible. Former spatial cane parts and lagoons valuable for wintering and moving of extremly various bird world so as for feeding and berry of the fishes are today only rests and people with different human activities are continuing in jeopardizing of this area.

     However this area has even in it's present condition, in aspect of keeping of the biological and landscape variety, international importance. As that lower flow of neretva is part of the Ramsar list-Converntion about wetlands protection and in program Important Bird Areas which is conducted by the BirdLife International.

     Natural unit of the Neretva's lower flow is formed by a valley with last 30 km of the river's flow. After the tributaries Trebižat and Bregava basin, the valley spreads suddenly and forms alluvial area "Neretvanska blatija" cca 20.000 ha. Upper part is area Hutovo blato, dependent from water system of the river Krupa, while in the lower part which is in Republic Croatia, Neretva spreads into more branches forming spatial delta.

     It is understandable that in aspect of the nature protection this is uniqu area for which should be secured common directioning plan based on the perfect approach and transbordary cooperation.

Hutovo blato

     Hutovo blato sweeps on almst 8.000 ha Neretva's valley in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Through this area flows river Krupa, Neretva's tributary, which with underground waters of the edge karst area determinates water system and by that total life conditions in this wetland ecological system. Relief, climate, vegetation and plenty of water are creating during the whole year favourable life conditions for a great number of the plant and animal and especially bird species. Hutovo blato is important for wintering of the goose birds and woodcocks and for nesting of the European jeopardized species, as different herons or for instance litlle sparrow. Thanks to spatial wet areas and different wetland life areas and to favourable influences of the Mediterranean climate, hutovo blato is during winter advantageously area for ducks and many other bird species from north part of the Europe.

     Limestone clif "Ostrvo" splits Hutovo blato to upper (Deransko) and lower (Svitavsko) part. In the upper part there are six lakes and the biggest is Deransko. This area is still relativly preserved from human influence and it's important area for many plant and bird species.

     Former spatial wetland Svitavsko blato was converted in 1979 during hydroelectric power station building into spatial acumulation lake cca 1.300 ha. Lake water submerged former large wetland vegetation areas with fluviall meadow and fluviall willow and white poplar forests. That has significantly decreased bird na dfish species number.  Ornitological investigation warned on great quantitiy and quality changes of the structure of bird species comparing with status before 1979. Number of birds that depend on wetland vegetation (ducks) and fluviall meadows (woodcocks and lapwings) was especially decreased. international importance of this migrate bird area is significant decreased.

     Water affluence and it's connection with sea over Neretva and Krupa makes possible for rich fish world to survive here in Hutovo blato. This place is known for very long through it's eel and carp mariculture. Unfortunately, today the fish fund is very much poored. Significantly changed Neretva's and it's tribtaries water systems and especially violating of the natural balance by building of hydroelectric power station Čapljina, have also disordered migrations and structure of the fishes. Artery of the hutovo blato is river Krupa which leads waters from Deransko and Svilavsko area into Neretva. The river doesn't have real well, it's coming from Deransko area and it has serpentine flow. That very special river can flow in both direction. When Neretva has high water-gauge Krupa brings water to Deransko area and flows sorrounding areas.

     In 1995. Hutovo blato bacames protected as nature park under control of the Public company  Hutovo blato. In the one part of the park hunting and fishing are allowed and into ecological system is imported few foreign species which disordered relations in ecological system. Acumulations in Neretva's upper flow are conditioning dynamic of the water system which frequently is not in harmony with with season needs of the of the living world on this area. Assorted planning of all future activities within unique directionong plan seems to be more and more desirable.

Neretva's delta

     Neretva's delta in Republic Croatia contains around 12.000 ha. From former 12 creeks which were branched through delta after many meliorations today there are only two creeks. Also belonging wetlands, numerous lakes and lagoons are gone. Today are on that cultivated area fractured rests of the former unique Mediterrenean wetlands preserved. Five localities with total 1.620 ha surface are protected in categories of ornitological reservation (Pod Gredom, Prud and Orepak), ornitological-ichtiological reservation (Delta Neretva), and protected landscape (Modro oko and Desne lake).The whole area is predicted for protection in the nature park category.

     Natural values and variety of the inhabit areas are here depended on water system which is conditioned by the river Neretva. Thanks to underground karst flows of the basin area on the boundary area, with surrounded limestone field, there are large number of wells which are bringing significant quantities of water especially in winter. Underground water which is coming from that marginal area goes to nemerous brooks, lakes and rivers. Many caves and other underground inhabit areas in surrounding karst have rich fauna with many endemic features.

     For the delta is also significant influence of the sea. Areas with brackish water are special inhabit areas which are extra enrichening for the biological variety of the entire area. Water inhabit areas with spatial cane fields, wet meadows, sand beaches, reefs, salt waters and marginal karst of the over- and underground are great treasures of the inhabit areas, and that treasure is base for appropriate variety of the herb and animal world.

     Neretva's mouth is for great biological production feed area for numerous fish species. Delta, lagoons and brackish waters are hatcheries for fishes and crabs which are spending rest of their life in the fresh or salt water. They are aslo entrances and exits for fish migrations. Before drainage of numerous lagoons the mouth was significantlly better for feeding and hatching of the fishes-especially lake Modrić. But even today mariculture is important resource for living and the people from this areas are seeing this as accessory job. Most of the catched species are Merluccius merluccius and eels. Unfortunately, fishing hasn't supervision and it's conducting unsystematic and with unappropriate methods, so on this way already poored fish funds are even more jeopardized.

     In the Neretva's delta there are 310 bird species and 115 of them are nesting birds. The area is primarily important as rest area for bird migrations and wintering. The mouth is with shallows and reefs the most valuable for migration of the Emberiza melanocephala, tops and gulls. Cane fields and water surfaces are important for migrations and wintering of the goose birds, and cane fields, surrounding meadows and bush for different ginging birds. Here there are nests some European jeopardized species like Botaurus stellaris, Aythya nyroca and Charadrius alexandrinus, who makes nests on sand beaches by Neretva's mouth and also mustache arbor for which, this is only nest area in coast part of Croatia. Cane fields are important for nesting of the Gallinago gallinago L. and different species of Porzana pusilla and Acrocephalus melanopogon.

     After large meliorations conditions for wetland birds in Neretva's delta are significantlly worse (inhabit areas disappearance, intensive agriculture, unreasonable hunting). Birds quantitiy is today significantlly decreased but the number of the species is still large and valuable. Considering birds species structure and delta's importance for bird migrations and wintering that area has international importance. With appropriate protection measures and managing plan which should include revitalization of some inhabit areas and rigid hunting regulation the condition might be much better.

Monumentary legacy

     Neretva's lower flow is overflown with monumentary legacy which testifys about milleniums of human presence. Through grabing of the productive land from wetland and developing of the traffic ways toward inside were also condition for colonies development created. There are numerous prehistoric forts and colonies and also grave batchs strayed on rises and lower parts near Neretva. It looks like that on this area lived old Iliric tribes in the ironage. Antient Greeks have founded in the 4^th century emporium (harbour) which developed into far known bargain place Narona, present Vid near Metković. Through whole delta around Narona were strayed suburb colonies and economy possessions whose remnants are today hided by the wetland and river drifts. Rich monumentary legacy also testifys about Roman time-city bulwarks with towers, Roman villas, mosaics, epitaphs. In the emperor August's time Narona was administrative center. 1996 in the Vid centre on the main square (Augusteum) were digged out remnants of the temple where 16 statues of gods and goddices were found. Between this statues impressive is emperor August statue, 3 meters high.

     Christianity can be followed from the middle of the  5^th century on the lower Neretva area. From early Christian legacy St Vid basilica, with extraordinary conservated baptistery on today's church in Vid place, is pointed out.

     There are few conservated monumentaries from the Middleage. During Turk attacks in the end of the 15^th century some churchs were demolished and mention to that time is impressive fort Norinska tower, on the river Norin into Neretva mouth. Because of often wars from the Venetian republic time there are not significant monumentaries.

     Traditional engineer building in the lower Neretva's flow has it's specialities and it is also inserted into monumentary legacy of that area. But people are leaving old buildings and they are becoming ruins or they are unappropriated rebuilt.

     Importancy of the archeological discoveries and monumentary legacy needs to be appropriate valued and extraordinary possibilities of tourism which is result of that should be used in the best way.

Neretva's lower flow-sometimes and now

     After the last glacial period the sea level had increased and the sea submerged karst relief till today's Hutovo blato. Neretva was inflicting the gravel left it in the valley. The wetland was formed when Neretva filled sinked karst inlets with it's rich drifts, and in that way Neretva hoited the ground. On the areas that were on bigger distance from the river flow, where the drift was not that strong, stayed wetland and lakes. In the middle of this alluvial drifts today are emphasized single mounds of the karst landscape.

     The man began to conquer the wetland and put it under his needs already in 19^th century. Bigger regulations on Neretva started in 1880 when the waterway to Metković was built. First melioration form was so called ditching, canal digging which were used for wringing of the wetland soil, and drafting of the digged soil on the parcels. In that way the cultivable soil was created. Hunting, fishing, cattle cultivation which were surviving on the wetland vegetation, vineyardening and cultivation of the poor soil were kinds of life in the Neretva's lower flow even before 50 years. Everything was under water cycles and moving and the main vehicle for this area were unique logs. From that little boats people fished, picked grave, took care for the cattle which often hustled through the water. The wedding and funeral ceremonies passed in the logs on Neretva.

     Bigger meliorations conducted in 1960-s brought drastical changes. Beautiful Obrad Glušćević's movie People from Neretva is chronicle of a hard but special way of life of the people from this area which is only in the memories only of the oldest inhabitants. Touching scene in the movie-funeral in the logs which are going down on the Nereva watched through jaws of the mud-machine- is a simbolic demonstrator of the dying of a way of living. That way of life is dying because of the machines which are devouring the wetland.

     Application of the modern soil cultivating methods, intensivitation of the agriculture and initiation of the new cultures, conditioned increasing of the life standard of people in the Neretva's delta. The landscape was from dominantly wetland area transformed into agriculture area with mandarine plantation. In the last ten years the picture is changed again-the intensity of the agriculture is weaking and many meliorated areas, without expensive maintaining procedures ,are becoming spontaneus wetlands. Extraordinary possibilities for the tourism and ecological agriculture considering nature protection are not enough used. On the crossroad of the future developments ways, it is neccessary to make a choice.

Area using

     Negative influences of the human activity on the natural worths, are the same in the whole area of the Neretva's lower flow. Inhabitants are today concentrated in few bigger places. Metković, Opuzen and Ploče are bigger centers in Republic of Croatia, and Čapljina on the Bosnia and Herzegovina area.

     In cooperation with experts of the international organization FAO in 1960-s 5.376 ha of the wetlands and lagoons in the Neretva's delta were meliorated. with founding of the state company PIK Neretva new conquered agriculture area was gradually cultivated. The wetland was transformed into plantations, mostly mandarine plantations. Water regime of this place and nearness of the sea (soil saltionation) demanded constant application of very complex and expensive hydr-melioration measures for maintaining of the existing condition. Understandable, all that things went on harm of the wetland inhabit areas. With this things formerly immeasurable treasure of the fish and bird world was also decreased.

     In a few last years, after crash of the famous PIK Neretva, and in conditions of the difficult economy status, activities on soil arrangement are gone and agriculture activities are decreasing. Because of unsolved relationships in the area possessions, the development of the agriculture is unsystematic and without supervision. New cultivate areas are taken illegal forone's acount of the wetland inhabit areas while the other areas are becoming, because of neglect, wetland areas and natural plants are growing on that areas. Use of pesticids and artificial fertilizers, which are directly and undirectly polluting the water and jeopardizing water and wetland flora and fauna, is also conducted without supervision.

     Vine-economy activities have also, in last decades, affected the nature on this areas. Activities were tight involved with the development of the agriculture of this place (meliorations) and also line of river regulations for flood defence was conducted. Great disturbance of the water regime was caused by the five up-water hydro-electric power stations in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Belonging acumulations are keeping water and sediment and causing sudden changes of the water level, or water lack, especially in the summer months.

     While the agriculture and water activities jeopardizing primarly water and wetland inhabit areas meanwhile uncontrolled hunting and fishing are directly jeopardizing tha fauna of this area. Welth of the birds and fishes, which was basic for surviving of the inhabitants, is significantlly decreased. The tradition of the hunting and fishing is firmly rooted by the local inhabitants, although they are aware that the bird and the fish fund is jeopardized and it needs protection. Poachery is forbidden and burnening of the cane fields in purpose of getting of the wide hunt areas is not rare. Fishing also has similar problems. Canals are being damed with nets and in this way the moving of the fishes is being stopped and fishing is present even in protected reservation area at Neretva's mouth.

     Extraordinary tourism potential of this area is unfortunately almost unused. It looks like that the development of the tourism, connected with protection of the natural resources, could mark future development of the Neretva's lower flow.

Nature protection and future of the Neretva's lower flow?

     Natural and landscape values in combination with rich and extraordinary worth culture-historical legacy could become basic for the development of the whole Neretva's lower flow area. It is neccessary to plan intirely such development for the wide overboundary area.

     Hutovo blato is already protected as nature park, while the Neretva delta area in Republic Croatia is contemplated for the same category protection. Such protection, with full appreciation of the development urgencies, trys to protect the area from unreasonable economy using and building. Human activities are placed in frames of the determinated general conditions and constraints, so that basic natural values which are development basic of this area could be saved.

     Protection is based on zoning, that is on determination of the most preserved and most valuable parts of nature which need rigid protection regime, and of the surrounding areas with pronounced human activities. This area needs to be controled on unique way so that activity harmony of all users of this area could be insured, on the basic of the special management plan.

     However, it is neccessary to stop destroying of the rest wetland inhabit areas, and some already destroyed revitalize, in Neretva's delta..

     Combination of the wetland-coast surrounding with culture-historical legacy and specialities of the local way of life, needs to used as potential for the tourism development on this areas. Up till now the tourism concept for this area is not made. Meanwhile, in purpose of preserving of natural values as development basic, it is obviously that the tourism should not go in direction of massening with building of big hotels and touristic complexes. Contrary, here are extraordinary fitnesses for excursion tourism with seightseeing of the protected nature parts with bird watching and picturing, in combination with trips to archeological localities and culture-historical sights.

     Here there is also exctraordinary potential for development of the ecological agriculture which is appropriate with this development conception of the whole area.

     Testings of the public say conducted in Neretva's delta in last few years are showing significant shifts in conscience development about need for the nature protection as basic of the future development. Few not-government associations wich are active on nature protection area have significantlly contributed to the education of youth and to the spreading of the general ecologocal conscience on this areas.

Overboundary cooperation

     In frame of conduction of the Ramsar convention about wetland areas each country applicates, for inscription in the so called Ramsar list, wetland localities which have acceptable criteriums for international importance. Lower Neretva's flow is Ramsar area in Bosnia and Herzegovina (Hutovoblato) and in Republic Croatia (Neretva's delta). In sense of the Ramsar convention it's about unique overboundary Ramsar area which must be harmonized managed.

     In cooperation between Republic of Croatia Ministery for enviroment protection and space regulation and Hercegovačko-neretvanski canton Ministery of engineer building, space regulation and enviroment protection from Bosnia and Herzegovina, and with financial support of the Fund for small grants of the Ramsar convention, during 2001 the project Preparation of the overboundary plan for lower Neretva's flow managing is conducted.

     Purpose of the conducted activities was to prepare a suggestion for preparation of the overboundary plan of managing which would be basic for the start and further conduction of the cooperation and for finding of the neccessary financial resources. Within the project largely documentation about neretva's lower flow was preparated. It will serve for further valuation and protection of this area.

     A concept of the future overboundary managing plan, which should be conducted by the park administration of the both states, in cooperation with the local people and all users of this area, was made. The managing plan must be based on good knowing of the existing condition which involves inventarization of the flora and fauna and detail maping of the inhabit areas. With the analysis of the existing activities, human influences and with the jeopardy for the natural values, the detail headlines of the managing and programs for it's conducting, will be worked out.

     Zoning on the areas with different levels and ways of protection, so as the plan of the tourosm development, are neccessary components of that managing plan. But only with production and conducting of the overboundary managing plan the obligations of the Ramsar convention will be completed.

International projects in Neretva's lower flow

• In 1997 within Ramsar convention the project MedWet-initiations was held on. It was financed by the European Union fund LIFE and the project included Neretva's delta area in Croatia. As part of the project the seminar about social-economical aspects of usning Neretva's valley was also conducted with participation of the proper experts and local community.

• In 1999 started two years Life program-Third countries, Preparation of the new way of managing of the Hutovo blato. The aim of the project is to develop methods for reestablishing of the basic wetland structure with special accent on fish and birds communities.

• During 2000 within the Pact of the stability conduction and REReP program (Regional Environmental Reconstruction Programme for South Eastern Europe) and with financial help from the Swiss agency for development and cooperation, the project Supporting of the cooperation and exchange in the countries of the Mid and East Europe started, It is leaded by the Regional center of the enviroment protection for Mid and East Europe. Neretva's lower flow is one of the areas where the project is conducting and it's aim is to develop regional cooperation for the nature protection area by fortification of the civil society institutions. Via that program ungovernment local organizations conducted during 2001 few valuable small projects.

Jaroslav VEGO
Jasminka RADOVIĆ

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